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    Albert Hakvoort
    @AlbertHakvoort
    I didn't saw that you already created somethijng
    to chat ;)
    m000c400
    @m000c400
    Yes, our new home ;-)
    BartGijsbers
    @BartGijsbers
    Great that we can continue here!
    BartGijsbers
    @BartGijsbers
    I saw you set the HP to Heat Curve mode. Instead of setting the temperature to +/- some degrees, have you try-ed to just set the temperature? Like 30 degrees?
    m000c400
    @m000c400
    Good idea I can try that. I'm also going to set it to say +5, then send 0, to see if it expects anything
    BartGijsbers
    @BartGijsbers
    You don't have to use the 0x08 flag to set a temperature. Just use the 0x80 flag. By setting the correct heating mode you can change the temperature with the heat pump changing the heat mode
    BartGijsbers
    @BartGijsbers
    I mean "without"
    BartGijsbers
    @BartGijsbers
    I did a lot of programming the last couple of days. Created a github account and uploaded the code to share. Settings (room temperature, flow temperature, hot water temperature and heating mode) can now be done by MQTT.
    This has enabled the possibility to program a "powerlimit" on my heat pump. Since I have 15 heating zone's in my house, I always had the program of the heating pump running at max power when a zone with relative cold water opened. Now I monitor this and lower the flow temperature to prevent this. It also increases the flow temperature when possible to the requested max temperature. If I want I could even heat my house based on power input instead of water temperature input.
    m000c400
    @m000c400
    Looking good
    I have a similar to translate to and from MQTT, and have patched it into Home Assistant
    Untitled.jpg
    As I don;t have Melcloud, I was looking at this pic..
    apps.23975.9007199266478803.319ae2cf-471e-45f7-8d5c-f14faaa5131d.jpg
    From the MElcloud site
    Just trying to work out which features are left to find
    From what I can see, it is possible to Set Zone 1&2, Room Temp, Flow Temp, but not adjust the compensation temp... We have found that too..
    You can adjust the DHW setpoint and turn on 'Boost' ... We can do that too
    m000c400
    @m000c400
    We have found some more telemetry.
    On Melcloud, it looks like you can setup 'Holiday MOde'
    I was hoping we'd be able to set the heating and hot water between Off/Timer/On, like on the FTC5, but I can's see that
    Have I missed anything major?
    Albert Hakvoort
    @AlbertHakvoort
    image.png
    image.png
    That one you mean?
    m000c400
    @m000c400
    Yes I saw that on the Melclod emulator
    Albert Hakvoort
    @AlbertHakvoort
    I can only enable Holiday with a date, but I can't change any settings
    Nice, I will try it this week ;)
    r0b3rtk
    @r0b3rtk

    Hi all, I saw your thread on tweakers.net and am very interested in getting this running @ my home as well (Mitsubishi Ecodan owner). Currently I'm running a WeMos D1 to force a 10 minute duty cycle on the thermostat input, so adding this to get readings from the heatpump in my OpenHab installation would be very nice :-)

    @BartGijsbers any suggestions on where to get the level shifter? I have a lot of stuff lying around except for that. I would like to play around with your code to implement the homie standard (https://homieiot.github.io) so compatible controllers like OpenHab can automatically recognize it.

    BartGijsbers
    @BartGijsbers
    Welcome to the team Rob! I am using this level shifter: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32772428392.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4d3Cpscp. I think am level shifter will do to be honest. I am also controlling the thermostat input with a D1 mini already for years. I build my own thermostat/zone control. I don't know if you can get my code running on a D1 mini. The esp8266 has only on hardware serial port which is wired to the usb chip on a D1 mini.
    m000c400
    @m000c400
    As I understand it.. The Ecodan must have an 'Open Collector' output on the TX pin, ( https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Open_collector ) That is why you need a pull up, and don't see data if you don't have one. You can 'pull up' to any voltage you like ( within reason ), so if you pullup to 3v3, you get 3v3 logic levels, pull up to 5v0, get 5v0 logic levels. You can add a pull up resistor externally, or as the data rate is so low, and if your cable is short, the ESP8266 ( and others ) allows the option to enable an internal pullup. Using this, as the ESP8266 isn't 5v tolerant, you are sure you only get a 3v3 input to your D1 ( or similar ). For the Ecodan RX pin, it may be 3v3 logic on board, or 5v, but both see a 3v3 signal as logic 1, so there is no problem So my case I have both Rx and Tx directly connected, with "INPUT_PULLUP" set on the ESP8266 Rx pin, and it all seems to work OK
    m000c400
    @m000c400
    Progress of sorts... Starting at the other end of the problem, today I managed to fold my protocol engine into Tasmota!!! Only 1 parameter sent at the moment, but in principle everything else is there, and all the back end it sorted 'for free' !!
    image.png
    Untitled.jpg
    BartGijsbers
    @BartGijsbers
    Impressive! I use tasmota a lot, but never dared to even look at the code, let alone add to it.
    Albert Hakvoort
    @AlbertHakvoort
    Nice, I've got some spare Wemos D1 ( and a spare Ecodan at work ;) ) for testing ...
    BartGijsbers
    @BartGijsbers
    Please check if you can use the RX/TX port on the Wemos D1. They have the USB-to-Serial chip on these pins which could make the RX/TX not usable. There are many hardware versions of the wemos D1, so it might work/not work for you.
    Ron Vossen
    @ronserita_gitlab
    Good job guys. I am also very interested just lacking time. You can use the Rx and Tx (from usb) of the ESP8266. connect a diode from the Tx output" Edocan" to Rx input ESP. (pull only to gnd) I use this myself for ESP8266 to RS485 to MODBUS.
    Normale there is a resistor between USB TX to ESP8266 RX.
    IgorYbema
    @IgorYbema
    Hi guys. I stumbled uppon your project as someone mentioned my name on a forum. You guys are doing the same as me and some others started a year ago with the panasonic heatpump. Now a year later we are very succesfull and have a large user community for the project. I'm reading you are facing the same problems we had before. We now even have our own board which can be easily connected to the panasonic heatpump. See https://www.tindie.com/products/thehognl/heishamon-v31-communication-pcb/ And the thing is, this board is almost 1on1 compatible with your mitsubishi heatpump as it seems. It only uses the older esp8266 instead of the esp32 but that would be no problem. Panasonic is even using the same 5 pin JST connector of the mitshubishi ! So, to conclude, if I can help you in any way let me know. I would be pleased to send one of you guys a heishamon PCB with cable so you can test it out (you only need to switch some pins as the pin order is different).
    BartGijsbers
    @BartGijsbers
    Hi Ron, Welcome! I will make a version the esp8266 so we can test that.
    Hi Igor, welcome as well!. That looks impressive what you have made. I make custom circuit boards, but don't know if I will make it for this project. The idea to include temperature sensors is great. I now have a separate esp for that.
    IgorYbema
    @IgorYbema
    @BartGijsbers I mean, you can use the heishamon pcb without a problem when you install the esp8266 code on it (with some minor changes I will provide, we use gpio5 to enable lever shifting mosfets after boot and use serial.swap so we do not need to use the normal tx/rx). If there is a mitsu user near Arnhem/Nijmegen (Netherlands) I will be happy to come over and test this.
    BartGijsbers
    @BartGijsbers
    I was not aware of the serial.swap function. What I read, this solves potential problems on a D1 mini. Many thanks. Unfortunately I live in near Schiphol.
    IgorYbema
    @IgorYbema
    Yes this is why we did this in the first place. However the replacing GPIO's after swapping need some special care also or else the esp8266 will not boot up. So GPIO5 is used to enable the mosfets for level shifting after boot. This is also described in the esp8266 hardware design guide page 11 and 12 (https://www.espressif.com/sites/default/files/documentation/esp8266_hardware_design_guidelines_en.pdf)
    I am ok to send you a pcb and a cable if you PM me your adres. It however needs a USB-TTL cable to program (or OTA afterwards). Do you have that? Or else I need to program your software first on it so you can OTA update it later.
    BartGijsbers
    @BartGijsbers
    Thank you for all information. On the D1 mini GPIO15 is pulled with a 12K external resistor to ground, so that should work in theory. Let us first test everything with a D1 mini before the next steps.
    IgorYbema
    @IgorYbema
    Ok great, let me know when you want to test. The problem we had with the pana is that they pulled the GPIO15 high (on their side RX while TTL communications state that the TX side (wemos gpio15) is the one who should pull it high and not the RX side). This caused the wemos not to boot while connected to the heatpump so we needed that mosfet enable solution after boot.